Stucco Screed Beads and Termination Beads: Which Profile Goes Where (and Why It Matters)

Screed beads and termination beads serve as edge guides and finish anchors for stucco systems. They come in different shapes to handle base, corner, or joint needs and keep lines true. Each profile has a distinct purpose tied to its geometry.

Other related profiles include casing beads, weep screed, corner beads, and control or expansion joints. Knowing what each profile looks like and where it sits helps you plan transitions and alignments with the wall plane.

What a screed bead does

A screed bead is your straight edge for applying basecoats. It’s like a guide rail for your trowel.

Thickness control – It helps maintain a consistent thickness of the basecoat. No more than 1/4 inch variance, please.

Substrate transition – Screed beads bridge the gap between different substrates, like your wall and floor. They help create a smooth, even surface.

What a termination bead does

A termination bead is your finish line. It marks where your stucco stops.

Clean end – It gives you a neat, tidy edge. No ragged ends here.

Mechanical stop – At exposed edges, it provides a secure anchor for the stucco to grab onto. No more crumbling corners.

Other common profiles and naming confusion

You’ll hear different names for similar beads, depending where you are. A ‘casing bead’ might be a ‘trim bead’ elsewhere.

Check manufacturer drawings to be sure. They show the intended function of each profile. It’s like reading a map – you need to know what you’re looking at.

Here are a few more you’ll see: weep screed (lets water out), corner bead (strengthens corners), control/expansion joint (allows for movement).

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The most commonly used profiles cover bases, edges, and corners, plus joints that allow movement. Termination and screed beads typically establish the outer reference and finish line. Casing beads and corner beads manage transitions and openings cleanly.

Weep screed provides drainage and moisture handling at the bottom of a wall, while control joints accommodate movement and cracking control. Match each profile to its functional need rather than only its appearance.

Starter and Weep Screeds for Base Transitions

At the base of your walls, you need to control the thickness of your stucco and allow for drainage. That’s where starter and weep screeds come in.

Starter screeds are L-shaped profiles that sit on top of your foundation or slab. They help maintain a consistent thickness at the base of your wall, ensuring even coverage.

Weep screeds, on the other hand, have drainage holes to let water escape. They’re used above foundations to prevent water buildup and protect your structure from moisture damage.

Casing, Termination, and Back-Blocking Beads for Exposed Edges

When it comes to exposed edges like rooflines, window heads, or slab edges, you need profiles that secure and finish your stucco terminations.

Casing beads are used at the top of walls under the roof overhang. They hold the stucco in place and create a clean, finished look.

Termination beads are similar but are used at other exposed edges like window heads or slab edges. They prevent the stucco from cracking or chipping off.

Back-blocking beads are placed behind these termination beads to provide extra support and reinforcement, preventing movement and further protecting your edges.

Control and Expansion Joints, Plus Corner Beads

To prevent cracking due to natural movement in your structure, you need control and expansion joints. These profiles allow the stucco to move slightly without breaking.

Control joints are cut into the stucco at regular intervals to direct where cracks should form if they occur. They’re usually filled with a flexible sealant.

Expansion joints are wider and allow for more movement, often used in areas prone to temperature changes or settling.

Corner beads are L-shaped profiles that reinforce external corners where two walls meet. They prevent cracking at these high-stress points and create a neat, finished corner.

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Start at the base and work upward, placing weep/trowel-friendly beads at moisture-facing edges. Install corner beads at external corners to maintain sharp, true angles. Use termination or screed beads where wall sheets end or meet trim lines.

At openings like doors and windows, pick beads that support head and sill alignments. For material transitions, select profiles that accommodate movement and keep the surface continuous.

Base of wall and foundation interfaces

The base of your wall meets the foundation. Here’s where weep screeds and starter screeds come into play.

Weep screeds are L-shaped profiles that sit at the base, creating a small gap for water to drain out. They prevent water from building up behind your stucco and causing damage.

Install them with the leg pointing down, flush against the foundation. Leave some space between the top of the weep screed and the finished grade to maintain good drainage.

Above that, install starter screeds. They provide a straight edge for your first layer of stucco. Make sure they’re level and plumb before you start applying the mix.

Windows, doors, and penetrations

At windows, doors, and other openings, use termination beads to create a clean edge for your stucco work.

First, install flashing around the opening. This redirects water away from the wall cavity. Then, apply your termination bead over the flashing, securing it with nails or screws.

For windows and doors, use casing beads to cover the gap between the frame and the stucco. They provide a neat finish and help prevent water entry.

Ensure all these components are properly integrated and aligned for a watertight seal that looks good too.

Corners, control breaks, and horizontal terminations

At corners, use corner beads. They reinforce the 90-degree angle, preventing cracks from forming due to stress or impact.

Install them with the flat side against the wall, then apply your stucco. The bead will be embedded in the mix, providing extra strength at this vulnerable point.

Every 12-16 feet horizontally, create a control joint. This allows the stucco to expand and contract with temperature changes without cracking. Use a backer rod and sealant to fill the joint before applying your final coat of stucco.

At horizontal terminations like rooflines, use termination beads to create a clean edge. Make sure they’re properly aligned and secured for a neat finish that won’t let water in.

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Wrong placement can invite moisture intrusion and staining if protective edges aren’t properly restrained. Inadequate profiles at joints may crack or separate with seasonal movement. Aesthetics suffer when lines aren’t straight or corners aren’t square.

Choosing the right profile helps channels for drainage and reduces wicking or moisture traps. Properly located beads also support long-term finish quality and maintenance ease.

Moisture management and drainage

Properly placed beads aren’t just about looks. They’re your first line of defense against moisture. Here’s how they work:

Screed beads at the base guide water out, away from your foundation. They interface with your water-resistive barrier (WRB) and flashings to keep moisture out.

Wrong profiles or improper placement can cause water to pool, leading to leaks, mold, and structural damage over time.

Remember, water management starts at the bottom. Get your screed beads right, and you’re off to a good start.

Accommodating movement and preventing cracks

Concrete and stucco move. They expand and contract with temperature changes, settling, and other factors. Control joints help manage this movement.

Termination beads at the top and ends of your walls provide a controlled edge for these joints. They prevent random cracking by directing stress relief to specific points.

Wrong profiles or improper placement can cause uncontrolled cracks, compromising both the look and durability of your finish.

Think of termination beads as traffic cops. They keep movement under control, preventing chaos (cracks) on your walls.

Aesthetics and finish continuity

The right bead profile makes a big difference in how your finish looks. It controls visible edges, shadow lines, and how finishes align at transitions.

For instance, casing beads create a clean, finished edge around windows and doors. They hide the raw edge of your wall and provide a smooth surface for paint or other finishes to adhere to.

Wrong profiles can leave rough edges, uneven lines, or gaps that ruin your finish’s continuity and appearance.

Choose your bead profiles wisely. They’re not just functional; they’re the frame around your wall’s picture.

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Plan the order to install beads so edges align with the backing, lath, or scratch coat. Fit profiles first, then apply the base layers, keeping beads clean and protected. Avoid bending or twisting profiles out of plane during setup.

Verify compatibility with other trades and coatings before shaping joints or corners. Keep a consistent pace and verify line true as you progress across elevations.

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Prepare a basic set of beads, appropriate fasteners or joining methods, snips, and a chisel or punch for crease work. Have a level, straightedge, and line pins to verify alignment. Bring along a screw gun or hammer and adhesive as required by the product instructions.

Check product labels and manufacturer instructions for recommended substrates and curing conditions. Confirm compatibility with your stucco mix, lath, and any waterproofing layers before starting.

Compare aluminum, PVC, and galvanized steel options by looking at corrosion resistance, flexibility, and compatibility with fasteners. Review the profile thickness and edge geometry to ensure it seats properly. Always verify with the manufacturer data sheet or product label.

Local code or project specifications may govern acceptable materials for exterior assemblies. Check for any required coatings, finishes, or weather performance ratings that apply to your situation.

Inspect edges for straightness, tight joints, and consistent alignment with adjacent surfaces. Look for gaps, loose anchors, or bent profiles that can trap moisture. Note any misaligned corners or mis-sized openings that need adjustment.

Common fixes include re-seating beads, resealing joints, or replacing damaged sections. For repair, follow up with the appropriate patch or re-coating steps and recheck lines after curing.