Drywall Tips and Tricks — DIY Steps + Stop Points

Assessing the Job and Measurements

First things first, grab your tape measure and a notepad. You’re gonna need ’em.

Start by measuring the area you’ll be concreting. It’s simple math: length x width = square footage. But remember, measure twice, cut once. It’s the same here – measure twice, pour once.

Next, calculate how many panels of concrete you’ll need. Most come in 80 sq ft panels. Divide your total area by 80 to find out how many you need. Don’t forget to add a bit extra for waste – I’d say around 5-10%.

Now, mark down any special features like doors, windows, or outlets. You’ll need to work around these when laying your concrete.

Identifying types of damage and causes

Before starting any repair work, use this checklist to identify the type and cause of damage. This will help you determine the scope of repairs needed.

• Surface cracks (hairline to 1/8″ wide): Check for fine lines on walls or ceilings. Use a ruler to measure width. These are usually harmless, but can indicate minor settling or moisture issues if numerous.
• Wide cracks (>1/8″ wide): Measure crack width with a ruler or feeler gauge. Wider cracks may suggest structural problems like foundation settlement or excessive moisture.
• Vertical cracks: Check for cracks following the direction of drywall seams. These often result from minor settling and are usually easy to repair.
• Diagonal cracks: Look for cracks at a 30-60 degree angle to walls or ceilings. These can indicate structural issues, so check nearby walls and ceiling for signs of settlement or movement.
• Water stains (yellow, brown, or dark spots): Inspect stains closely; they may be caused by plumbing leaks, roof damage, or condensation. Check nearby areas for moisture or mold.
• Mold (black, green, or white spots): Look for visible mold growth on walls or ceilings. Use a moisture meter to confirm high moisture levels in affected areas. Mold indicates water intrusion and potential health risks.
• Sagging or bowed walls/ceilings: Check for signs of structural failure, such as bulges, waves, or deflection. Measure deflection with a straight edge and level; more than 1/8″ in 8′ indicates serious issues.
• Doors/windows sticking or misaligned: Test door and window operation. Sticking or misaligned openings can indicate structural movement or settling.

Quick rule: If you find any signs of structural damage, stop work immediately and consult a professional engineer or architect before proceeding.

Framing and structural checks

Before you start hanging drywall, use this checklist to ensure your walls and ceilings are structurally sound. It’s crucial to catch any issues now to avoid expensive rework later.

• Check stud spacing: Verify that studs are spaced 16″ or 24″ on center (OC). This is the most common spacing and ensures proper support for drywall. What goes wrong if you skip this: Incorrect spacing can lead to sagging or bowed walls.
• Inspect stud straightness: Ensure each stud is straight using a level or straight edge. A slight bow can cause drywall to crack during installation. What goes wrong if you skip this: Crooked studs make it difficult to install drywall and may result in visible imperfections.
• Check ceiling joist spacing: Make sure ceiling joists are spaced 16″ or 24″ OC. This provides the necessary support for drywall and any future ceiling fixtures. What goes wrong if you skip this: Inadequate support can cause sagging or cracking in the ceiling.
• Verify ceiling joist depth: Ensure ceiling joists are at least 2×8 or 2×10 for standard drywall installations. Shallower joists may require additional support or different drywall installation methods. What goes wrong if you skip this: Insufficient joist depth can lead to sagging or cracking in the ceiling.
• Check for rotting wood: Inspect all framing members for signs of rot, such as soft spots or discoloration. Rotted wood must be replaced before installing drywall. What goes wrong if you skip this: Drywall installed over rotted wood can lead to mold growth and structural issues.
• Verify load-bearing walls: Identify any load-bearing walls, which typically have double studs or additional support. These walls require extra care during drywall installation. What goes wrong if you skip this: Neglecting to account for load-bearing walls can result in structural damage and safety hazards.
• Check for proper blocking: Ensure there is blocking between studs at each 4′ or 8′ interval, as required by local building codes. Blocking provides additional support for drywall screws and helps prevent sagging. What goes wrong if you skip this: Inadequate blocking can cause drywall to sag or crack over time.
• Inspect fire stops: Check that all openings between walls, ceilings, and floors have proper fire-stopping material installed. This is crucial for fire safety and may be required by local building codes. What goes wrong if you skip this: Inadequate fire stopping can compromise fire safety and may result in code violations.

Quick rule: Always follow local building codes and consult manufacturer instructions for specific product requirements. This checklist provides a general guide, but your project may have unique needs based on location or design.

Cutting and fitting panels

Before you start cutting, check your drywall panels for any damage. They should be in good condition with no cracks or tears.

Scoring is the first step. Use a utility knife to score along your measured line. Press firmly but not too hard – you’re just creating a guide for the snap. Keep your knife level and steady.

Next, snap the panel along the scored line. You can use a straight edge or a drywall saw to help with this. Be careful not to tear the paper facing – it’s what holds the joint compound later on.

When fitting panels around openings and obstructions, always check the measurements twice. Drywall is unforgiving – once you cut it, that’s it. Use a combination square or a T-square to ensure your cuts are straight and accurate.

Fastening techniques and patterns

When it comes to hanging drywall, you’ve got two main choices for fasteners: screws or nails. Both have their uses, so let’s dive in.

Screws: These are your best bet for most jobs. They hold better over time and won’t pop like nails can. Use drywall screws, not regular ones – they’re designed to grip the gypsum core. Check the box for size; #6 or #8 are common, but follow manufacturer recommendations. Drive them in a countersunk pattern, about 1″ from edges and joints.

Nails: Some folks still use nails. They’re cheaper, but they can pop later on, especially if the wall moves. If you insist on using them, go for drywall nails, not finish nails. Use a nail set to sink them below the surface and fill with joint compound. Nail in a similar pattern as screws, about 1″ from edges and joints.

Now, about those patterns… You want to space your fasteners out evenly. A good rule of thumb is every 6-8″ along studs and joists. But always check local codes, some areas have specific requirements. And remember, never fasten into the drywall paper. It tears easily and you’ll end up with a weak hold.

Working ceilings and awkward areas

Hanging drywall on ceilings can be a pain in the neck, literally. Here’s how to tackle it safely and efficiently.

Safety first: Always have someone help you lift panels into place. Use a drywall lift if available. Wear safety glasses and tie back long hair.

For odd angles, like vaulted spaces or sloped ceilings, you’ll need to cut your panels accordingly. Refer back to the cutting section. Remember, it’s easier to cut too much off than to try and fit a panel that’s too big.

For small repairs, use drywall patches or mesh tape. But for larger areas, you might need to cut out the bad section and replace it with a new piece. Always check base compaction before hanging new panels to avoid sagging.

Joint tape methods (paper vs. mesh)

When it comes to joint tape, you’ve got two main choices: paper and mesh. Both have their uses, so let’s dive in.

Paper Tape – This is your go-to for most interior walls and ceilings. It’s cheaper and easier to work with. Here’s how to use it:

1. Apply a thin layer of joint compound (mud) to the joint using a 6″ or 10″ taping knife.

2. Embed the tape into the mud, using firm pressure and a straight edge like a drywall knife or trowel. No need to overlap; just press it in firmly.

Mesh Tape – This is better for high-moisture areas like bathrooms and kitchens. It’s stronger, but also more expensive and harder to work with. Here’s the deal:

1. Apply mud to the joint as before.

2. Embed the tape, using firm pressure and a straight edge. But here’s the catch – you’ve got to overlap the tape by at least an inch on each side of the joint. This takes more mud and time.

Installing and finishing corner beads

Corner beads come in two main types: metal and plastic. Metal’s stronger, but plastic’s cheaper. Check the label to be sure.

Attaching them: Use drywall screws or nails, spaced every 4-6 inches. Don’t use too many, you don’t want to see screw holes later. Keep ’em flush with the surface.

Finishing: After taping (you’ve done that already, right?), apply joint compound over the bead. Use a 6-inch knife for the first coat, feathering it out on both sides. Let it dry. Sand lightly if needed. Apply another coat with a 10-inch knife, feathering even more. Let it dry. Now you’re ready to prime and paint.