Introduction
Roof framing components are the wooden or metal members that form the skeleton of a roof and carry loads. This article looks at common causes of problems, how to test for issues, and practical fixes you can do. Keep in mind safety and check local rules before making changes.
Common issues show up as loose connections, bowing, or cracked member ends. You can test by visual checks, gently probing, and noting any movement or water intrusion. Fixes should follow safe practices and rely on proper replacement parts and the building rules in your area.
Key takeaways
- Inspect ridge and joist connections for signs of movement, cracking, or gaps.
- Use a level and plumb line to verify framing remains structurally true.
- Identify water stains or mildew as indicators of hidden leaks requiring attention.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and hard hat during framing inspections and repairs.
- Verify fasteners and connectors meet manufacturer and code guidance during repairs.
- Plan permanent repairs by component with clear sequence and required materials.
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Key takeaways
- Overview of Roof Framing Components
- Common Causes of Roof Framing Problems
- Visual Checkpoints: How to Inspect Roof Framing
- Diagnostic Tests and When to Use Them
- Immediate Temporary Fixes and Safety Measures
- Permanent Repair Strategies by Component
- Tools, Materials Checklist & Material Specs Explained
- Preventive Maintenance and Long-Term Care
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Overview of Roof Framing Components
Ridge, rafters, and trusses form the backbone of a roof frame, while joists and purlins help carry loads across spans. Fascia and soffit finish off the framing and manage ventilation and weather exposure. Material choices commonly include timber, engineered wood, and steel, with construction methods varying by style and climate.
Understand how these parts connect to transfer weight from the roof to the walls and foundation. The goal is to maintain correct geometry for a stable, leak-free roof, even as loads change with seasons and use.
Primary structural members (ridge, rafters, trusses)
The backbone of your roof is made up of three main players: ridge boards, rafters, and sometimes, trusses. Let’s get to know ’em.
Ridge Boards: These fellas run along the top peak of your roof, connecting the two sides together. They provide support for the roof’s weight and help keep everything square. You’ll find them in gable, hip, and shed roofs. Check their size – they’re usually 2×8 or 2×10, depending on your span.
Rafters: Rafters are the main load-bearing members that run from the ridge board down to the top plate of your walls. They support the roof’s weight and transfer it to the walls below. In gable roofs, rafters are evenly spaced (16″ or 24″ on center) and create a triangular shape. Hip roofs have a bit more complexity with their hip rafters, but the principle remains the same.
Trusses: Trusses can be your best friend if you’re looking to save time and money. They’re pre-engineered, factory-built assemblies that span from one side of your roof to the other. You’ll see them in many modern homes. They come in various shapes (gable, hip, etc.) and sizes, so check what’s needed for your specific project.
Secondary and finishing members (purlins, collar ties, fascia)
Alright, listen up. You’ve got your ridge and rafters in place, now it’s time to lock ’em down with some secondary members. These guys might not be the main players, but they sure keep the show running.
Purlins, they’re like the ribs of your roof. They run perpendicular to your rafters, supporting them and helping distribute weight evenly. You’ll typically see them spaced every 16″ to 24″, so check your local codes or manufacturer’s specs for the right spacing.
Now, collar ties. These are your roof’s corset, keeping everything cinched up tight and preventing those rafters from spreading out like a fan. They run between opposing rafters at the top, usually every other pair or so. Again, check your codes for exact spacing.
Lastly, we’ve got fascia. It’s just a fancy word for that board along the edge of your roof, hiding those rafter ends and giving you something to nail your gutters to. Make sure it’s properly flashed to keep water out.
Materials and common grades
The right materials ensure your roof framing is strong, durable, and looks good. Here’s what you need:
- Rafters and Ridge Board: These are the main structural members. Look for:
– Species: Pressure-treated southern yellow pine (SYP) or Douglas fir is common.
– Grade: #2 or better, with a minimum bending strength of 600 psi.
– Tip: Avoid using green lumber; it shrinks and twists. - Trusses (if using): Pre-engineered for strength and efficiency. Check:
– Load Rating: Ensure they meet your roof’s live load requirements.
– Manufacturer: Reputable companies follow strict quality control. - Purlins and Collar Ties: Support rafters and add stability. Choose:
– Size: Typically 2×4 or 2×6, depending on spacing.
– Spacing: Check local codes; usually every 16″ to 24″. - Fascia and Soffit: Protect your home’s interior. Select:
– Material: Pressure-treated lumber or composite for longevity.
– Thickness: Typically 1×6 or 1×8, depending on roof overhang. - Nails and Screws: Essential for connecting components. Consider:
– Size: Common sizes are 8d (2-3/4″) to 16d (3-1/2″).
– Type: Galvanized or stainless steel for corrosion resistance. - Roofing Material: Protects your home from the elements. Consider:
– Type: Asphalt shingles, metal, tile, etc.
– Warranty: Longer warranties indicate better quality.
Pro tip: Always check local building codes and manufacturer specifications for exact grades and sizes. Buy materials from reputable suppliers to ensure quality. Store lumber off the ground, covered, to prevent warping and moisture damage.
Common Causes of Roof Framing Problems
Moisture and rot can weaken wood members, especially where ventilation is poor or leaks persist. Insects such as termites or carpenter ants damage structural components over time. Inadequate design or improper connections also lead to compromised framing.
Additional risk comes from load overload, whether from heavy snow, equipment, or additions that weren’t accounted for. Look for signs like sagging, cracking, or disturbed fasteners as early warning indicators.
Moisture and rot
Leaks, poor ventilation, and persistent wetting can cause decay and structural weakening in your roof framing. Inspect first around chimneys, vents, and skylights where water often enters.
Check rafters, trusses, and other primary members for signs of softness, discoloration, or crumbling. Rotten wood feels spongy and breaks easily.
Moisture can also hide in attics with inadequate ventilation. Ensure your roof has proper intake and exhaust vents to keep humidity levels low.
Overloading and design deficiencies
Excessive snow loads, heavy roofing materials, or improper span/connection design can cause your roof to sag or fail. Check your roof’s design assumptions with local building codes.
Snow loads vary by region. Ensure your roof can handle expected amounts safely. Heavy materials like slate or clay tiles may require additional support.
Improperly designed spans or connections can lead to deflection or collapse under load. Inspect rafters, trusses, and purlins for signs of excessive sagging.
Connection failures and fastener corrosion
Rusted nails/screws, failed metal plates, or loosened bolts can compromise your roof’s structural integrity. Inspect connectors regularly to catch issues early.
Environmental factors like humidity, temperature changes, and salt air (coastal areas) accelerate corrosion. Consider using stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners in these conditions.
Check for play or movement at connections. Tighten bolts if necessary, but be careful not to over-tighten and strip threads. Replace rusted nails/screws with new ones.
Visual Checkpoints: How to Inspect Roof Framing
Begin with a safe attic walk and a routine exterior inspection for obvious deflection or daylight through sheathing. Check connection points at ridge, jack rafters, and joists for tightness and corrosion. Note any moisture staining or mold growth on framing members.
Record any misalignments, gaps, or crushed insulation that could indicate movement. Prioritize areas around penetrations and corners where stresses concentrate.
Attic inspection checklist
Before you start any roofing work, use this checklist to inspect your attic. It’s best done on a clear, dry day with good lighting.
- Check for deflection: Look at the ceiling joists from below. They should be straight; if they’re sagging or bowed, note the extent and location.
- Inspect rafters/tails: Check for cracks, splits, or signs of excessive movement. Ensure they’re securely connected to the top plate.
- Look for daylight: If you can see light coming through, mark the spots where the roof is leaking and note the size of gaps.
- Check for stains: Dark stains or water marks on the underside of the roof decking indicate leaks. Mark their location and size.
- Inspect for fungal growth: Look for mold, mildew, or wood rot. If found, note the extent and take samples if necessary.
- Check connections: Ensure all ceiling joists, rafters, and truss components are securely connected with appropriate fasteners. Tighten or replace as needed.
- Measure ventilation: Check that you have adequate attic ventilation (1 square foot of vent for every 150 square feet of attic floor).
- Inspect insulation: Ensure it’s evenly distributed, not compressed or damaged. Note any gaps or thin spots.
Quick rule: Always document your findings with photos and measurements. This helps you track progress and ensures nothing gets overlooked during repairs.
Exterior and under-eave checkpoints
Before you start any roof work, use this checklist to inspect the exterior and underside of your eaves. It’s crucial to catch potential issues early to avoid costly surprises later.
- Check for sagging eaves: Sagging indicates structural issues that could lead to expensive repairs or even collapse. Use a level to check; if it’s more than 1/8″ per 10 feet, call a pro.
- Inspect fascia boards: Look for splits, cracks, or rot. These can cause water damage and compromise the roof’s structure. Check every 2-3 feet.
- Check nail pops on eaves: Nail pops indicate movement in the framing, which could lead to leaks. Tighten any loose nails and consider reinforcing if many are found.
- Examine soffit vents: Ensure they’re unobstructed and functioning properly. Blocked vents can cause moisture buildup, leading to rot and mold.
- Inspect rake edges: Check the ends of your eaves for signs of damage or wear. These areas are often overlooked but crucial for maintaining a stable roof structure.
- Check for daylight through eaves: From inside, look up at the underside of your eaves. If you see light, it means there are gaps that could let in water and pests.
- Ensure drip edges are intact: Drip edges prevent water from getting behind the fascia and causing rot. Check for any missing or damaged pieces.
- Look for signs of animal intrusion: Holes, nests, or droppings indicate pests that could cause damage to your roof’s structure over time.
Quick rule: If you find any significant issues, always err on the side of caution and consult a professional roofer before proceeding. It’s better to be safe than sorry when it comes to your home’s safety.
Measuring deflection and alignment
Use this checklist once you’ve completed the attic inspection and exterior checks. It helps ensure your roof framing is sound and safe.
- Check rafter or truss sag: Place a straightedge (like a 2×4) across the bottom of the rafters or trusses. Measure the gap between the straightedge and the ceiling joists with a tape measure. This should be no more than 1/8″ for every 10′ span.
- Use laser level for precise measurement: Set up a laser level along one side of the rafters or trusses. Measure the gap at various points; it should not exceed the 1/8″ per 10′ tolerance.
- Inspect ceiling joists: Ensure they’re level and properly supported by the rafters or trusses. Check for any signs of sagging, which could indicate a problem above.
- Check ridge board alignment: From the attic, look down the length of the roof. The ridge board should be straight and level. Any significant bowing or warping could indicate structural issues.
- Inspect rafter ties: Ensure they’re properly installed and not twisted or broken. This helps maintain the roof’s overall stability.
- Check collar ties (if applicable): For hip roofs, ensure collar ties are present and securely fastened. They help prevent racking and keep the roof square.
- Inspect bird’s mouth cuts: Ensure they’re properly cut and fit snugly against the top plate. This provides a solid base for the rafters or trusses.
- Check for over-spanning: Measure the span of your rafters or trusses. If it’s too long, they may sag over time, leading to costly repairs.
Quick rule: Always check both sides and multiple points along each rafter or truss. A small deflection can add up to big problems if left unchecked.
Diagnostic Tests and When to Use Them
Use non-destructive methods like moisture meters to identify damp areas in wood members. Conduct simple test drills or pin tests in suspect spots to gauge core condition without removing large sections. Reserve more invasive testing for cases where structural risk is present.
When in doubt, consult an engineer or refer to manufacturer instructions and local code requirements before proceeding with significant evaluations or alterations. Document findings and verify any claims with product labels or technical data sheets.
Moisture and Decay Testing
Before you start any repair work, you need to know what you’re dealing with. That’s where moisture meters and probe checks come in.
Moisture Meters: These are your eyes underground. They measure the moisture content in concrete or wood. Here’s how to use ’em:
1. Calibrate it first, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Insert the probes into the suspect area. Readings over 4% in concrete and 18% in wood indicate moisture issues.
3. Map out damp areas to know where to focus your repairs.
Probe Checks: For decay testing, you’ll need a screwdriver or a sharp tool to probe suspect wood. Here’s what to do:
1. Gently insert the tool into the wood at an angle.
2. If it goes in easily and the wood feels soft or crumbles, you’ve got decay.
3. Check the extent of the damage by probing along the grain.
Fastener and plate testing
Before you start any project, check your connectors. It’s like checking your tools – you wouldn’t use a blunt saw, right?
Pull tests are easy. Just grab a wrench or pliers and give it a good tug. If it moves more than 1/4″, it’s too loose. Tighten it up.
For metal plates, look for rust, cracks, or bends. If you see any, replace them. They’re cheap; don’t risk your project on a bad plate. If you’re unsure, check with the manufacturer or get an engineering opinion.
Load and deflection evaluation
When you’re dealing with structural issues or planning major changes, don’t guess. Get the facts with a load and deflection evaluation.
Why bother? It’s like checking your car’s oil before a long drive. You need to know if your structure can handle the weight and stress of new loads or modifications. Ignoring this could lead to costly repairs or even collapses.
Here’s what you do:
1. Hire an engineer. Don’t try to calculate this yourself unless you’re a structural engineer. They’ll know the right tests and calculations for your specific situation.
2. Temporary shoring. If the structure is compromised, the engineer might recommend temporary shoring to support it during testing. Safety first!
3. Measured load/deflection analysis. The engineer will apply measured loads to your structure and monitor how much it deflects (bends). This tells them if it’s strong enough or needs reinforcing.
Remember, every structure is unique. Always check local rules and manufacturer instructions before starting any work. Your safety and the integrity of your home depend on it.
Immediate Temporary Fixes and Safety Measures
Set up temporary shoring under exposed rafters or damaged sections to prevent collapse. Close off access to the affected areas and use tarps to minimize water intrusion while you plan repairs. Avoid driving loads onto compromised areas until a plan is in place.
Coordinate simple redistributions of weight and remove added loads, such as stored materials, from the roof space. Evacuate or restrict access if there is imminent risk of failure or falling debris.
Temporary Shoring and Bracing
When your roof framing is compromised, temporary shoring can prevent further damage until professional repairs are made. Here’s how to do it:
Size the shores based on the span and load they’ll support. For most homes, 2x4s or 2x6s will suffice.
Place shores vertically, leaning against the joists or rafters at a 45-degree angle. Secure them with nails or screws every 16 inches.
Note: Temporary shoring is not a permanent fix. Have a professional assess and repair your roof framing as soon as possible.
Leak Control and Moisture Mitigation
Controlling leaks and mitigating moisture can halt deterioration until repairs are made. Here’s how:
For small leaks, use a tarp to cover the affected area. Secure it with weights or nails, but be careful not to damage the roof further.
For large leaks or widespread moisture issues, improve ventilation by opening windows and using fans to dry out the attic. Consider installing a dehumidifier if necessary.
Note: These are temporary measures. Addressing the root cause (e.g., rot, corrosion) with professional repairs is crucial.
Reducing Loads and Isolating Hazards
To prevent further damage to your compromised roof framing, reduce the load on it and isolate any hazards. Here’s how:
Remove heavy items from your attic if possible. This reduces the weight bearing down on your roof.
If snow or ice accumulates, remove them safely. Use a roof rake to pull snow off from the ground, and melt ice with calcium chloride or rock salt.
If you find compromised areas in your attic, isolate them by closing off access points. This prevents further damage and keeps people safe until repairs are made.
Permanent Repair Strategies by Component
Sistering rafters or replacing damaged members can restore stiffness and alignment, with attention to matching moisture content and fasteners. Reinforcing ridge beams or repairing purlins requires careful sequencing to maintain roof geometry. Consider the trade-offs between replacement versus reinforcement for each component.
Weigh pros and cons of different fasteners, timber grades, and connection hardware, and follow manufacturer instructions and local rules when selecting materials. Plan the repair steps to maintain safe access and maintainable loads during the process.
Rafter and Rafter-Sistering Repairs
Sistering is adding a new rafter alongside an existing one to strengthen it. It’s best when the original rafter has minor damage or isn’t wide enough.
Overlap: Aim for at least 48 inches of overlap between the old and new rafters. More is better, but practicality counts too.
Fastening: Use 16d or 20d nails in two rows along the overlap. Space them about 3 inches apart. Consider using screws for extra strength, but nails are usually enough.
Caution: Sistering doesn’t fix hidden damage. Before you start, ensure the rafter’s ends and joints are sound. If not, replace the whole thing.
Truss Repair and Replacement
Common truss failures include broken web members or chord rotation. First, stabilize using temporary supports like 2x4s under the chords.
For minor damage, repair by replacing broken members with new ones of the same size and type. Use 16d nails or screws every 3 inches along the joint.
If a truss is badly damaged, it’s safer to replace it entirely. Remove the old one carefully, then install a new one designed for your load needs and spacing.
Note: Always use engineered trusses from a reputable supplier. They’re designed to meet local building codes and snow loads.
Reinforcing Ridge Beams, Collars, and Ties
Ridge beams, collars, and ties support the roof structure. If they’re weak or damaged, reinforce them to prevent sagging or collapse.
Steel Straps: These are easy to install and add significant strength. Stagger their placement along the beam for best results.
New Collar Ties: Adding new ties can help distribute loads more evenly. Use 2x4s or 2x6s, depending on your roof’s size and load needs.
Engineered Beam Reinforcement: For serious issues, consult an engineer. They might recommend sistering the beam, adding a new one alongside it, or using specialized reinforcement methods.
Tools, Materials Checklist & Material Specs Explained
Prepare a basic DIY toolkit plus specialty items for framing work, including measuring gear, cutting tools, and fasteners. Keep a list of replacement members and compatible connectors for the system you are restoring. Review corrosion resistance requirements for all metal components.
Learn how to read material specs for grade, size, and treatment, and verify them against product labels and data sheets. When in doubt, confirm with the supplier or manufacturer instructions before purchasing or installing.
Tools for inspection and simple repairs
Before you start any repair work, make sure you have the right tools. Here’s a quick checklist to keep you safe and efficient.
- Moisture meter: Check for hidden moisture that could cause decay or mold. Skip this and you might miss early signs of trouble.
- Level and straightedge: Ensure your repairs are square and level. Without these, your fixes won’t last.
- Drill: Essential for making holes and driving screws. Don’t forget to bring the right drill bits too.
- Temporary props: Keep your roof safe while working on it. Use props to support loads temporarily.
- Safety glasses: Protect your eyes from debris and falling objects. Don’t take unnecessary risks.
- Work gloves: Prevent cuts, scrapes, and splinters. Your hands will thank you.
- Hard hat: Protect your head from impacts. It’s a small investment for big protection.
- Harness: For steep or high-pitched roofs, use a harness to prevent falls. Safety first!
Quick rule: Always prioritize safety when choosing your tools and gear.
Fasteners, straps, and metal connectors
Choosing the right fasteners is crucial for a strong, durable roof. Here’s what you need to know.
- Nails: Use ring-shank nails for better holding power. Skip this and your repairs might not last.
- Screws: Galvanized screws are good for most jobs, but use stainless in coastal areas to prevent corrosion.
- Plates: Metal plates help distribute loads. Check local codes for size and spacing requirements.
- Straps: Use metal straps to reinforce rafters and trusses. Skip this and your roof might be weak at the connection points.
- Metal connectors: Choose connectors with high shear values for better strength. Don’t skimp on quality here.
Quick rule: Always choose fasteners that match or exceed local code requirements.
Lumber and engineered product specs
Understanding lumber sizes and engineered member options is key to a solid roof. Here’s what you need to know.
- Lumber sizes: Common sizes are 2×4, 2×6, etc. Check local codes for span limits based on size.
- Engineered members: Trusses and I-joists can span longer than solid sawn lumber. Always check manufacturer load tables.
- Grade stamps: Look for grade stamps to ensure you’re getting quality lumber. Skip this and you might get weak, warped boards.
- Moisture content: Check moisture content of lumber before using it. Too much moisture can cause warping later on.
Quick rule: Always verify local code spans and manufacturer load tables for engineered members.
Preventive Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Establish a regular inspection routine to catch issues before they escalate, especially after storms or heavy snow events. Schedule ventilation and moisture control checks to protect framing from condensation. Address pest prevention as part of annual maintenance.
Keep up with roof covering upkeep to prevent leaks that can undermine framing. Plan periodic structural reviews or engineering assessments to confirm continued safety and performance.
Routine inspections and timeline
Regularly inspect your roof framing to catch potential issues early. Use this checklist as a guide.
- Annually: Inspect rafters, trusses, and ridge beams for signs of warping or cracking. Warped or cracked members may indicate structural issues.
- Bi-annually (Spring & Fall): Check for proper ventilation, insulation, and moisture control. Poor ventilation can lead to mold growth and structural damage.
- After storms: Inspect for any loose or damaged components. Promptly fix any issues to prevent further damage.
- Before/after renovations: Recheck framing to ensure no additional stress is placed on the structure. Changes in loading can cause hidden issues to surface.
- Every 5 years: Inspect metal connectors and fasteners for signs of corrosion or loosening. Corroded fasteners may lead to structural failure.
- Every 10 years: Re-insulate the attic if necessary, following current building codes. Proper insulation helps maintain a stable temperature and prevents moisture buildup.
- Every 20 years: Consider hiring a professional to assess your roof’s overall condition. A thorough assessment can help prevent major issues down the road.
Quick rule: Always inspect your roof after severe weather or significant changes in loading.
Ventilation and moisture control strategies
Proper attic ventilation is crucial to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to framing decay. Here’s how:
Balanced ventilation: Ensure you have adequate intake vents at the eaves or soffits and exhaust vents at the ridge or gables. This allows for continuous airflow.
Insulate your attic floor to prevent heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter, which can lead to condensation. Use a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation to prevent moisture from entering the framing.
Water management: Ensure your roof has proper drainage with no low spots where water can pond. Install drip edges at eaves and rakes to prevent water from getting under the shingles and into the framing.
Record-keeping and when to consult an engineer
Keeping detailed records of your roof’s maintenance history can help you identify trends and prevent major issues. Here’s what to keep track of:
Take photos of any damage or repairs, noting the date and location. Keep a log of all repairs, including materials used and who performed the work.
When to consult an engineer: If you notice any of the following signs, it’s time to call a professional for a structural assessment:
- Sagging or uneven roof lines: These can indicate serious structural issues that require immediate attention.
- Cracks in interior walls or ceilings: While not always indicative of framing issues, they could signal a problem with your home’s structure.
- Doors or windows that stick or won’t close properly: This can be a sign of structural movement or settling.
Quick rule: If you’re unsure about any aspect of your roof’s condition, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and consult a professional.
Conclusion
Take control now by making safety the first priority and then follow simple, repeatable checks to keep the roof framing solid, long-lasting, and looking right from the ground up.
Start with a quick survey of visible components, move to check fasteners and connections, look for signs of water or compression stress, and apply the right tests only where you’ve seen a need. Work in small areas, verify each step before moving on, and document what you find as you go. Use proper fall protection, clear the work zone, and limit changes to what you can verify with the tests and the material specs discussed in the guide.
Avoid common mistakes: over tightening or under tightening the same fasteners, skipping a diagnostic test when a problem is suspected, and treating a temporary fix as a cure-all. Never ignore uneven framing, obvious rot, or water intrusion, and always follow safe procedures for work at height or near edge details. If you’re unsure about the load path, fastener sizes, or whether a repair affects the structure’s integrity, step back and reassess before proceeding.
If any sign points to structural compromise, or if the repair would require cutting, reconfiguring, or restoring critical members, call a licensed pro. You can handle routine maintenance and cosmetic fixes, but professional help is crucial for major repairs or when personal safety or code compliance could be at risk. Stay practical, stay cautious, and you’ll keep the roof strong for years to come.
FAQ
What signs should I look for that indicate a problem with roof framing components?
Look for sagging, noticeable cracks in walls or ceilings near the attic, sticking doors or windows, and uneven or loose roof decking. Any loud creaks or bangs from the attic during wind or storms is a warning sign. If you see warped members or excessive moisture stains, flag it for a closer check.
How do I confirm which framing component is failing?
Start by a visual inspection from the attic and attic access. Check rafters, joists, ridge beams, and bearing points for cracks, splits, or rot. If you find movement or soft spots under tapping, test with light pressure and note where it feels weak.
What safe tests can I do myself to assess framing integrity?
Use simple checks like probing with a screwdriver for soft spots and measuring for any bowing along member edges. Do a basic load check by gently pressing on supported areas to feel for excessive give. If you doubt your results or see obvious damage, stop and call in a pro.
When should I implement temporary fixes and when is it time to replace?
Use temporary bracing or supports only to keep structural elements from moving until repair work can begin. If members show deep cracks, severe rot, or large deflections, plan a full replacement rather than quick fixes. Safety first—don’t risk a collapse while you’re DIYing.