Spalling Brick – 9 Causes (How to Confirm)

Spalling is when the brick surface flakes, pits, or spits due to moisture intrusion. You may also see chipped edges, hollow tapping sounds, powdery residues, or white efflorescence on the brick faces. These signs point to underlying moisture and failing protection for the wall.

Spalling matters beyond looks because it undermines weatherproofing and can let water behind the veneer. That moisture can cause interior dampness, mold growth, and higher energy use, with potential safety risks if bricks come loose on a load bearing wall. Start with a simple home check and document what you find for a pro to verify later.

Definition and Visible Signs

Spalling is when brick surfaces start to flake, pit, or spall due to moisture intrusion, freeze-thaw cycles, and salt or chemical damage. You’ll see:

Chipped edges, where small pieces of brick break off.

Hollow-tapping sounds when you knock on the bricks, indicating a loss of material inside.

Powdery residues at the base of walls, showing that bricks are crumbling.

Efflorescence – a white, chalky deposit – on brick faces, signaling water movement through the wall.

Safety and Structural Risks

Spalling isn’t just about looks. It poses real dangers:

Falling masonry. Loose bricks can tumble down, causing injury or property damage.

Water entry. Moisture behind the brick veneer promotes interior damp and mold growth, leading to higher energy bills and potential health issues.

Accelerated decay. Once started, spalling worsens over time, weakening walls and compromising their ability to bear loads.

Larger structural failures. If untreated, severe spalling can lead to significant wall collapses or other major problems, threatening your home’s integrity and safety.

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We group the nine causes into three categories: moisture-driven, salts and chemicals, and structural or physical issues. Each group has a quick, example-worthy description to help you see where the problem fits. This helps you plan how to investigate.

Look for signs like widespread damp patches for moisture, white efflorescence and crystalline deposits for salts, and brick cracks or misaligned joints for structural problems. These cues guide your next steps and what to test.

Moisture-driven causes

Moisture is a brick’s worst enemy. It can cause spalling through several ways:

Freeze-thaw cycling: Water seeps into pores, freezes, and expands, breaking the brick surface.

Trapped water behind bricks can also lead to spalling. This often happens due to failed flashing or blocked weep holes. Weep holes are designed to let water out; when they’re blocked, water has nowhere to go but into the wall.

Salts and chemical causes

Dissolved salts can cause spalling. They draw moisture in, then crystallize as they dry, creating internal pressure that damages the surface:

Efflorescence is a white, powdery deposit you might see on brick surfaces. It’s a sign of salt activity.

Deicing salts and harsh cleaners can also cause problems. They leave behind salt residues that attract moisture and cause similar issues to efflorescence.

Structural and physical causes

Physical factors can initiate spalling directly or indirectly:

Corroding metal like lintels or ties can expand as they rust, pushing bricks outwards.

Incompatible or crumbling mortar can’t hold bricks together properly. This leaves them vulnerable to spalling from wind, weather, and other forces.

Mechanical impact, like a falling branch or a collision with a vehicle, can cause immediate spalling. Vegetation, especially roots and vines, can also exert pressure on walls over time, leading to spalling.

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Bricks that soak up water can crack when temperatures swing below freezing. Water expands as it freezes, creating internal pressure that spalls the surface. Porous bricks and permeable mortar make this worse over time.

Confirm by looking for powdery faces, crumbling skin, hollow bricks, damp patches after freezes, and bricks that feel looser as you tap them. A simple moisture check after cold snaps or a quick test with a moisture meter can help you decide if freeze-thaw is the culprit.

How Freeze-Thaw Physically Damages Brick

The freeze-thaw cycle is brutal on bricks. Here’s how it works:

Water seeps into porous bricks during wet seasons. When temperatures drop, this water freezes and expands. The ice pushes against the brick’s internal structure, creating pressure.

Over repeated cycles, this pressure causes tiny cracks to form in the face shell of the brick. These cracks grow with each cycle, leading to progressive surface loss – that’s spalling.

Brick edges, corners, and areas near the substrate are particularly vulnerable as they bear the brunt of these forces.

How to Confirm Freeze-Thaw is the Cause

To pinpoint if freeze-thaw cycles are causing your spalling, inspect your bricks seasonally:

After a freeze event, look for fresh breaks or cracks. These will be evident as they won’t match up with older damage.

Use a moisture meter or infrared thermometer to detect any retained moisture. High readings indicate water has been trapped and frozen.

Correlate your findings with the freeze-thaw cycle in your area. If damage coincides with these cycles, you’ve likely found your culprit.

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Efflorescence appears as white, powdery deposits or staining on brickwork and signals salt movement with moisture. It is not only a surface issue but a sign of internal chemical changes in the masonry. These salts come from water carrying minerals through the wall.

Different salts indicate different sources, such as rising damp or exterior leaks, and each affects internal pressure and spalling in its own way. For diagnosis, compare visual cues with moisture readings and consider sampling for salt analysis if needed, then decide on a treatment plan with a pro.

What efflorescence tells you about moisture and long-term risk

Efflorescence appears as white, powdery deposits on brickwork. It’s a sign that water has been carrying soluble salts through your masonry. Here’s what it means:

Moisture movement: Efflorescence indicates that moisture is traveling through your bricks or mortar joints.

Long-term risk: Persistent efflorescence suggests a chronic moisture path. This could lead to further damage, like spalling, if not addressed.

How to test and confirm salt-related damage

To confirm efflorescence is causing your spalling issues, perform these simple tests:

Wipe test: Wipe the affected area with a damp cloth. If the residue is white and powdery, it’s likely efflorescence.

Photograph patterns: Different salts leave unique staining patterns. Photograph yours to help identify the type of salt present.

For aggressive salts or contamination, consider sending samples to a masonry lab for analysis. This can help you plan your remediation strategy.

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Rusty lintels, anchors, and ties can loosen bricks from the inside and create moisture pathways. Failed flashing around chimneys or roof intersections redirects water into masonry and speeds spalling behind the surface. Hidden moisture from condensation or leaking gutters also matters a lot.

DIY checks include looking for rust stains, measuring surface moisture, and using infrared checks to spot hidden pockets. When you confirm metal-related causes, you’ll want to prioritize replacing corroded parts and resealing interfaces before other repairs.

Why rust and failed flashing cause spalling

Rusting metals inside your brickwork are a ticking time bomb. Here’s why:

Rust expands, pushing against the surrounding mortar and bricks, disrupting their bond.

It creates new routes for moisture to enter, accelerating deterioration from the inside out.

Failed flashing around chimneys, parapets, or roof intersections can redirect water into your masonry, speeding up spalling behind bricks.

The diagnostic goal is to map the exact cause or mix of causes behind spalling. A clear workflow keeps you organized and safe. You’ll build evidence to support professional guidance if needed.

Proceed with a visual survey, moisture and humidity checks, and infrared cues, then inspect flashing and exterior moisture pathways. Gather photos, notes on weather, and observations about mortar condition to map likely causes for later confirmation.

Visual checkpoints: exterior, mortar, crown, flashing, and interior

Begin your inspection with a visual check of the exterior. Look for signs of damage or deterioration that may indicate the cause of spalling.

• Brick faces: Check for cracks, efflorescence (salt deposits), or discoloration. These can indicate water intrusion, salt damage, or other issues.
• Mortar joints: Inspect for missing or crumbling mortar. This can lead to water penetration and spalling.
• Chimney crown and flashing: Look for cracks, gaps, or rust in the crown and flashing. These can allow water to enter the chimney structure.
• Roof intersection: Check for proper flashing and caulking where the roof meets the chimney. Improper sealing here can lead to water intrusion.
• Interior stains near fireplaces: Inspect for water stains, mold, or peeling paint. These can indicate moisture issues behind the fireplace that may be causing spalling.

Quick rule: A thorough visual inspection is crucial but not conclusive. Always follow up with moisture and other tests to confirm your findings.

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Start with immediate actions to stop water intrusion and protect exposed brick. Avoid aggressive injections that can worsen spalling, and identify moisture sources such as roof lines and gutters. Document what you observe for the repair plan.

Next assess whether the issue is surface spalling or a deeper problem with brick, mortar, or flashings. Consider temporary fixes versus permanent options like mortar repointing, brick replacement, or crack stitching, while keeping structural elements in view.

Immediate homeowner steps and temporary fixes

First, stop active water leaks. Use tarps or plastic sheeting to cover exposed areas.

Document damage. Take photos and notes for insurance claims and planning repairs.

Improve drainage around the affected area. Clear gutters, extend downspouts, and remove any vegetation blocking water flow.

Temporarily fix minor issues. Install or repair chimney caps and rain deflectors to prevent further water intrusion.

Permanent repairs and professional methods

For long-term fixes, consider repointing or tuckpointing. Use an appropriate mortar mix—lime for historic brick, cementitious for modern.

Replace damaged bricks. Remove and replace any crumbling or cracked bricks with matching ones.

Repair or replace flashing and lintels. These metal components often corrode and cause spalling. Consult a professional to assess their condition.

For extensive damage, hire a qualified mason. They can provide a detailed scope of work and specifications for your specific situation.

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Common DIY mistakes include skipping surface prep, using the wrong mortar mix, sealing over moisture, or skipping a proper structural assessment. These missteps can worsen the problem or trap moisture behind the brick. Learn what to avoid before you start.

Cost drivers include materials, tools, scaffolding, and possible moisture-related damage. Use a clear planning checklist and compare bids with scope, permits, timelines, and guarantees to decide between DIY, a mason, or a preservation specialist.

Cost and planning considerations; when to hire a pro

Repair costs vary widely based on damage extent, access, historic requirements, and materials. Here’s what to consider:

Material costs: Replacement bricks, mortar, repair anchors, and tools can add up. Get quotes from local suppliers.

Scaffolding or lift rental: Access equipment may be needed for high walls. Rentals can cost $100-$500 per day.

Consider hiring a professional when:
– Structural risk or concealed damage is suspected.
– Historic or MSE brickwork requires specialized care.
– Load-bearing elements need repair.
– Warranty preservation or specific preservation standards are required.

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