Introduction
This is a practical overview of rebuilding a garage door slab edge by pinning the slab, isolating it to allow movement, and creating durable transitions to surrounding concrete. It explains the core idea in plain language, with a hands-on, DIY-friendly tone. You’ll get a straightforward sense of how these parts fit together and what to look for as you plan the job.
Expect practical cautions and checks as you work, like confirming flashing at the bottom of exterior walls and how water should be managed around the slab edge. I’ll mention drainage planes for different wall types and why you might need flashing behind wood or fiber-cement siding. When in doubt, consult product labels, manufacturer instructions, and local rules to verify installation details and safe practices.
Key takeaways
- Inspect slab-edge for cracks, spalling, and failed anchors before rebuilding.
- Pinning and isolation require accurate transfer paths and compatible materials during rebuild.
- Install bottom-of-wall flashing correctly and integrate with drainage plane for water control.
- Use drainage planes appropriate to brick, stone, or siding to manage moisture.
- Install flashing behind wood and fiber-cement siding to prevent leaks.
- Always wear eye protection and follow lockout procedures when cutting or grinding.
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Key takeaways
- Project Overview and Objectives
- Diagnose Slab-Edge Failure — Inspection Checklist
- Design, Permits, and Structural Considerations
- Tools, Materials, and Material Specs
- Step-by-Step Rebuild Procedure (Demolition to Finish)
- Waterproofing, Flashing, and Integration with Wall Claddings
- Durable Transitions and Garage Door Interfaces
- Safety, Maintenance, Common Mistakes, and Cost Estimation
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Project Overview and Objectives
A slab-edge rebuild centers on restoring solid structural support where the slab meets the doorway and creating a durable weather and vehicle transition. It clarifies how pinning, isolation, and transitions fit into a comprehensive rebuild plan. The goal is to minimize water intrusion and differential movement while preserving long-term durability.
The scope covers the slab edge, the footing interface, the door threshold, and any footing beneath, with explicit exclusions noted. It lays out when DIY methods are appropriate and when a professional is warranted. Success hinges on measurable outcomes such as load transfer, movement control, watertight transitions, and a durable surface finish that withstands garage use.
Scope and expected outcomes
A successful garage door slab-edge rebuild delivers a stable, structurally sound concrete edge around your garage door. It re-establishes a functional isolation joint to prevent water intrusion and differential movement. The work also integrates flashing and installs a durable threshold that’s level with the slab.
This project serves both homeowners looking to maintain their property and contractors aiming to provide long-lasting, reliable garage door installations.
The rebuild focuses on key concrete elements: the slab edge itself, the footing interface, the door threshold, and any footing beneath. It excludes cosmetic or interior garage improvements.
When to rebuild vs. repair
Assess your garage door slab edge for signs of significant damage, such as large cracks, crumbling concrete, or water intrusion. If the issues are localized and minor, consider a spot repair.
However, if you notice multiple cracks, delamination, or evidence of structural instability, it’s time for a full rebuild. Consult an engineer or contractor if you’re unsure about the extent of damage or need help assessing your concrete.
Safety first: If you suspect rusted anchors or other safety hazards, involve a professional before proceeding with any work.
Diagnose Slab-Edge Failure — Inspection Checklist
Establish a diagnostic framework that documents failure modes like edge heave, cracking, settlement, and moisture ingress with consistent photo and note records. Set templates to ensure repeatable evidence collection. Include a clear plan for prioritizing findings and next steps.
Moisture and drainage checks should note puddling, efflorescence, and poor slope that can drive deterioration. Look for signs of hydraulic stress and damage from termite activity or poor ventilation. Structural-load indicators reveal movement under load and impacts from vehicles or hardware.
Visual and probe checks
Before you start any work, use this checklist to visually inspect your garage door slab edge for signs of damage. It’s quick and helps you understand the extent of repairs needed.
- Cracks: Look for hairline cracks or wider gaps. Cracks can indicate movement or settlement.
- Spalling: Check for flaking or chipping concrete, which could expose reinforcement and weaken the slab.
- Separation at door threshold: Feel if there’s a gap between the slab edge and the door frame. This can cause water intrusion and freeze/thaw damage.
- Rust stains: Look for rust-colored stains, which may indicate exposed or corroding reinforcement.
- Rebar exposure: Inspect for any visible rebar, as this could mean the slab is wearing thin and needs attention.
- Efflorescence: Check for white, powdery deposits on the surface. This can indicate moisture issues within the concrete.
- Worn or damaged joints: Inspect expansion and control joints for signs of wear or damage that could lead to slab edge deterioration.
- Uneven surfaces: Use a straightedge to check for differential settlement. A 4-foot level can help you spot dips or high spots.
Quick rule: Don’t skip this step. Visual checks help you plan your work and avoid surprises during the rebuild.
Root-cause analysis (drainage, freeze/thaw, loads)
After visual checks, dig deeper to understand why your garage door slab edge is failing. This helps you address the root cause and prevent future issues.
- Poor drainage: Look for standing water near the slab edge or signs of water intrusion like efflorescence. Check gutters and downspouts too.
- Freeze/thaw cycles: Inspect for spalling, cracking, or other signs of freeze/thaw damage. This is more likely in colder climates.
- Subgrade settlement: Feel under the slab edge for any soft spots or voids that could indicate subgrade settlement.
- Reinforcement corrosion: Look for rust stains, exposed rebar, or signs of delamination. This can cause concrete to spall and lose strength.
- Load-bearing conditions: Check if the slab edge is supporting any significant loads, like heavy equipment or racks. Excessive loads can cause settlement and cracking.
- Door hardware impact: Inspect for signs of damage from the garage door opening and closing. Misaligned doors can cause wear and tear on the slab edge.
- Termite/moisture damage: Look for signs of termite activity or moisture damage, which can weaken the slab edge and cause it to fail.
- Expansion joint condition: Check if expansion joints are filled and functioning properly. If not, this could lead to slab edge deterioration.
Quick rule: Identifying the root cause helps you choose the right repair method and prevent future failures.
When to consult a structural engineer or mason
While many garage door slab edge repairs can be DIY, some situations require professional help. Use this checklist to know when to call in the experts.
- Ambiguous failure: If you can’t pinpoint the cause of failure after thorough inspection, consult a pro for expert diagnosis.
- Large span: If your garage door slab edge spans more than 12 feet, consider hiring a structural engineer to ensure proper design and support.
- Load-bearing conditions: If the slab edge supports significant loads or is part of a load-bearing wall, consult a structural engineer before making any repairs.
- Exposed reinforcement: If you find extensive exposed rebar or reinforcement corrosion, hire a mason to assess and repair the damage.
- Significant cracking: If cracks are wide (more than 1/4 inch) or numerous, consider consulting a structural engineer to ensure your slab edge is still structurally sound.
- Moisture intrusion: If you find significant moisture intrusion or signs of water damage, consult a pro to ensure proper drainage and waterproofing are implemented.
- Permit requirements: Check local building codes. Some repairs may require permits and inspections by a licensed professional.
- Complex design changes: If you plan to change the door size, add windows, or make other significant design changes, consult a structural engineer for guidance.
Quick rule: Don’t hesitate to call in the pros when you’re unsure. It’s better to be safe and get expert advice than risk further damage or injury.
Design, Permits, and Structural Considerations
Outline design decisions that influence pinning layout, including pin count, spacing from the edge, and interaction with existing footings and rebar. Consider anticipated load transfer and movement at the slab-edge transition. Align design with practical constructability and long-term durability.
Specify joint type and geometry to manage cracking while preserving door operation and drainage. Define transitions between new concrete and adjacent surfaces to minimize trip hazards and maintain uniform thickness. Include permits, local codes, and coordination with electrical, drainage, and insulation requirements in the planning process.
Structural design principles for pinning and reinforcement
The role of dowels or pins in your new slab is to connect it securely to the existing structure. They transfer loads, prevent movement, and keep everything aligned.
Reinforcement continuity ensures strength and stability. Follow engineer specs and manufacturer instructions for pin size, spacing, and embedment depth. Don’t rely on rule-of-thumb dimensions.
Key: Pins should be placed at least 2 inches from the slab edge to avoid stress concentrations. They should also align with existing rebar grids and footings for maximum support.
Permits, inspections, and code alignment
Before you start, check what permits are needed. It’s best to know upfront to avoid delays or fines.
- Check local building codes: Exterior slab alterations often require permits.
- Utility locates: Contact your utility company before digging to avoid damaging underground lines.
- Accessible thresholds: Ensure your new slab meets accessibility standards at doorways.
- Drawings submission: Some jurisdictions require drawings for permit approval.
- Inspector guidance: Consult with the inspector early to understand their expectations.
- Electrical considerations: If you’re adding or moving outlets, check electrical codes and consult an electrician.
- Drainage requirements: Ensure your slab allows proper water drainage away from the structure.
- Insulation standards: Check if your new slab needs to meet any insulation standards.
Quick rule: Always consult local codes and get necessary permits before starting work. It’s cheaper than fixing violations later.
Tools, Materials, and Material Specs
Define a contractor-friendly tools list specific to pinning, isolation, and transitions, including safety gear and moisture or isolation testing equipment. Include measuring and marking tools and basic testing devices. Prepare a quick kit for on-site use.
List materials by category with notes on compatibility and substitutions. Provide guidance on reading manufacturer data sheets for cure times, exposure ratings, and substrate compatibility. Create a simple matrix of required properties and a workflow to verify on-spec products and maintain traceability.
Tools and site equipment checklist
Use this checklist to gather all necessary tools and PPE before starting your slab-edge rebuild. Safety and efficiency are key.
- Safety glasses: Protect eyes from debris and hazards.
- Work gloves: Essential for handling materials and equipment.
- Steel-toed boots: Safeguard feet from falling objects and sharp edges.
- Hearing protection: Reduce noise exposure from power tools.
- Respirator: Protect lungs from dust and fumes.
- Tape measure: Accurate measurements ensure proper fitting of forms and materials.
- Chalk line: Mark out lines for cutting and placement with precision.
- Circular saw: For cutting forms, rebar, and other materials. Keep blades sharp.
- Demolition hammer (breaker): To break up old concrete and remove it efficiently.
- Drill rig with hammer drill bit: Drill holes for pins and anchors quickly and safely.
- Form tools (tamping bar, vibrator): Compact concrete and ensure proper form release.
- Finishing tools (floats, trowels): Smooth and finish the concrete surface.
Quick rule: Never skip safety gear. It’s your first line of defense on site.
Materials selection: concrete, pins, joint products, membranes
Choosing the right materials is crucial for a durable and long-lasting slab-edge rebuild.
- Concrete mix: Choose a mix designed for your climate and load. Look for high early strength for faster curing.
- Rebar/pins: Select rebar or pins with sufficient yield strength to support your garage door’s weight and movement.
- Epoxy/adhesives: Use a two-part, high-strength epoxy designed for concrete-to-concrete bonding. Check temperature ranges.
- Isolation/expansion joint products: Choose a flexible, durable material that can handle expected movement and prevent cracking.
- Bituthene or foam isolation: Opt for a product with good adhesion to both concrete and the membrane. Check exposure ratings.
- Edge forms: Select forms designed for your slab thickness and edge detail. Ensure they’re in good condition before use.
- Sealants: Choose a sealant that’s compatible with your chosen materials, has good UV resistance, and can handle expected movement.
Wrong materials lead to cracking, staining, weak bonds, and reduced lifespan. Always check compatibility and exposure ratings before purchasing.
Material specs and standards explained
Understanding material specifications ensures you’re using products that meet your project’s needs.
- Compressive strength: Ensure concrete meets or exceeds required compressive strength for your load and climate.
- Bond strength: Check epoxy/adhesive bond strength to ensure a strong, lasting connection.
- Crack-bridging capabilities: Verify expansion joint products can handle expected movement without cracking.
- Thermal expansion: Ensure materials can accommodate temperature changes without compromising the structure.
- Exposure ratings: Check membrane and sealant exposure ratings to ensure they’re suitable for your project’s conditions.
- Pull-out capacity: Verify rebar/pins have sufficient pull-out capacity to support your garage door’s weight and movement.
- UV resistance: Ensure sealants and membranes can withstand sun exposure without degrading.
Always confirm compatibility before purchase. Wrong specs lead to weak bonds, cracking, and reduced lifespan.
Step-by-Step Rebuild Procedure (Demolition to Finish)
Establish a precise step sequence from demolition through to final pour and curing, with test points at each transition. Use these checks to verify readiness for the next step and catch issues early. Document the process with photos and notes for QA.
Pre-demolition assessments confirm edge integrity and utilities, guiding the work plan. During edge rebuild, pinning, isolation, and transitions are coordinated to minimize moisture ingress and ensure compatibility with the surrounding slab. Follow a logical order that supports quality control and predictable results.
Step-by-Step Process
The following is a clear, numbered sequence of practical steps for your garage door slab-edge rebuild procedure. This will guide you from preparation and safety checks to the main work, and finally to cleanup or final checks.
- Preparation: Safety first! Clear the area, wear appropriate gear, and protect adjacent finishes.
- Demolition: Carefully remove failed concrete using a sledgehammer or electric demolition hammer. Protect reinforcement as you go.
- Exposure & Inspection: Expose existing reinforcement and substrate for inspection. Check for any signs of damage or corrosion.
- Main Work: Follow your pinning, isolation, and reinforcement plan. Install pins/dowels, anchors, and isolation joints carefully.
- Forming & Pouring: Set up forms accurately, ensuring they’re level and plumb. Pour concrete in controlled lifts, vibrating each lift to remove air pockets.
- Curing: Cover the newly poured slab with plastic sheeting or burlap to retain moisture and heat during curing. Follow your engineer’s recommended curing regime.
- Finishing & Final Checks: Once cured, strip forms, finish the surface, and perform final checks for level, plumb, and proper joint spacing.
Demolition, Excavation, and Subgrade Prep
Safely removing failed concrete is the first step. Use a sledgehammer or electric demolition hammer to break up the slab. Protect adjacent finishes with cardboard or plywood.
Exposing existing reinforcement and substrate allows for proper inspection. Remove any loose or damaged material, and clean the area thoroughly.
Preparing the subgrade is crucial. Excavate to a stable level, compacting the base as you go. Ensure there’s no standing water or soft spots.
Pinning, Anchors, and Reinforcement Installation
Follow your engineer’s guidance for pin/dowel placement. Mark locations on the substrate before installation.
Install pins/dowels at the specified embedment depth, spacing, and alignment. Ensure they’re properly bonded to the existing reinforcement.
For mechanical anchors or epoxy pins, follow manufacturer guidelines for installation. Always use proper safety measures when handling chemicals.
Isolation Joints, Forming, Pouring, Curing, and Finish
Install isolation/expansion joints according to your plan. These prevent cracking from thermal movement or shrinkage.
Set up forms accurately, ensuring they’re level, plumb, and properly braced. Use form ties to secure them to the existing slab.
Pour concrete in controlled lifts, vibrating each lift to remove air pockets. Ensure proper consolidation around pins/dowels and reinforcement.
After pouring, cover the slab with plastic sheeting or burlap for curing. Follow your engineer’s recommended regime for moisture retention and temperature control. Once cured, strip forms, finish the surface, and perform final checks.
Waterproofing, Flashing, and Integration with Wall Claddings
Synchronize slab-edge waterproofing with the wall drainage plane to create a continuous moisture barrier at the opening. Ensure materials are compatible with the wall assembly and concrete mix. Plan primers or damp-proofing as part of the system.
Define flashing details at intersections, including end dams and overlaps, to direct water away from the opening. Address isolation and drainage with a clear path for moisture flow. Include an installation sequence that works with cladding and weather barriers, followed by inspection checks.
Flashing techniques and best practices
Flashing is crucial to direct water away from the garage opening. At the slab-to-wall interface, step flashing should be used. This involves installing flashing pieces that are lapped over each other, creating a continuous barrier.
Terminate flashings properly at the ends using end dams or by turning them up and securing with fasteners. Ensure they’re lapped correctly according to manufacturer guidelines for membrane continuity.
At the threshold, use apron flashing that extends over the slab edge, creating a drip edge to shed water. Secure it with appropriate fasteners, ensuring it’s tight but allows for thermal movement.
Cladding-specific considerations (brick veneer, stucco, siding)
For brick veneer, maintain a 6mm air gap behind the brick and install weep screeds at the bottom to allow moisture drainage. Ensure the slab-edge waterproofing ties into this system without creating capillary bridges.
With stucco, use a scrim or lath reinforcement that extends over the slab edge, providing a continuous surface for the stucco application. Install weep screeds at the bottom to facilitate drainage.
For siding, ensure the weather-resistive barrier (WRB) transitions smoothly from the wall to the slab edge. Use compatible flashing and sealants to maintain the moisture barrier’s continuity.
Drainage plane, membranes, and sealant detailing
Choose a membrane that’s compatible with your concrete mix and wall assembly. Install it to create a continuous drainage plane from the wall to the slab edge, ensuring it’s properly primed or damp-proofed first.
Use backer rods and sealants to fill gaps and create a tight seal at intersections. Ensure these details allow for thermal movement without cracking or leaking. Follow manufacturer guidelines for proper installation and compatibility.
At the slab edge, ensure there’s a clear path for drainage and no capillary bridges into the wall. This might involve using end dams, terminations, or overlaps that direct water away from the opening.
Durable Transitions and Garage Door Interfaces
Define finished threshold profiles that align with the door swing for smooth vehicle and pedestrian transitions. Maintain isolation from moisture and concrete movement while keeping a seamless interface. Consider tolerances and clearances for operation.
Choose seals and gaskets with appropriate compression ranges and wear characteristics for garage traffic. Integrate flashing and drip edges to protect the edge while preserving seal performance. Plan for installation sequence and a maintenance schedule to sustain durability over time.
Threshold geometry and seal strategies
The threshold profile is crucial for smooth door operation and moisture isolation. Choose between ramped or flush profiles based on your garage layout.
Ramped thresholds are ideal for sloped driveways, guiding water away from the door. They require careful leveling to prevent tripping hazards.
Flush thresholds are best for flat surfaces, providing a seamless transition between the garage and exterior. Ensure they’re slightly below the slab edge to direct water outwards.
Seals and sweeps protect against water and air intrusion. Use gaskets along the door’s sides and top, compressing them during installation for a tight seal. Install door sweeps at the bottom, ensuring they clear the threshold and maintain contact with it when closed.
Thermal, movement, and vibration isolation
Garage doors experience thermal expansion and contraction, slab settlement, and vibrations from vehicles. Design the interface to accommodate these movements.
Use expansion joints at intervals along the threshold to allow for thermal expansion without stressing the concrete or door. Ensure they’re filled with a compressible joint filler that won’t degrade over time.
Install vibration isolators under the door track hardware to reduce vibrations from vehicles entering and exiting the garage. This protects both the door and adjacent finishes from damage.
Sill shims help maintain a consistent gap between the door and threshold, accommodating slab settlement over time. Use compressible materials that won’t degrade under UV exposure or vehicle traffic.
Visual checkpoints and performance testing
After installation and at the end of the first season, perform a visual inspection to ensure your garage door interface is functioning correctly. Use this checklist:
- Door operation: Open and close the door multiple times. Check for smooth operation, proper alignment, and no binding.
- Water shedding: Simulate rainfall or use a hose to test water runoff. Ensure water flows away from the door and doesn’t pool at the threshold.
- Seal compression: Manually compress seals to ensure they maintain their shape and don’t show signs of excessive wear.
- Ride quality: Roll a bicycle or push a wheelbarrow over the threshold. Check for smooth, even movement with no sudden drops or bumps.
- Gasket alignment: Inspect gaskets to ensure they’re properly aligned and maintain contact with the door throughout its travel.
- Sweep contact: Close the door and visually inspect the sweep’s contact with the threshold. Ensure it maintains consistent pressure along its length.
- Expansion joint integrity: Check expansion joints for signs of cracking or deterioration, indicating they may need to be replaced.
- Vibration isolation: Gently shake the door by hand when closed. Feel for excessive vibration transfer into the slab edge.
Quick rule: Address any issues found during inspection promptly to prevent small problems from becoming bigger, more expensive ones over time.
Safety, Maintenance, Common Mistakes, and Cost Estimation
Outline safety protocols, PPE, dust control, and handling of hazardous materials when present. Establish safe work zones and access routes to minimize exposure and risk. Prepare for responsible disposal and safe cleanup after each phase.
Develop an owner-friendly maintenance plan with a simple cadence for sealing, crack monitoring, and resealing. Highlight common mistakes to avoid, such as inadequate prep, rushed cures, and poor drainage details. Provide a straightforward cost-estimation framework with clear categories for quick budgeting.
Jobsite Safety and Hazardous Materials Handling
The right safety measures ensure your project goes smoothly and safely. Here’s what you need to know:
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Wear appropriate gear – gloves, goggles, hard hat, and boots.
- Ventilation: Use fans or respirators when working with chemicals. Keep the area well-ventilated.
- Disposal Practices: Follow local regulations for waste disposal. Segregate hazardous materials.
- Safety Data Sheets (SDS): Always follow SDS guidelines for handling chemicals.
- Demolition Safety: Secure the area, wear PPE, and be aware of hidden hazards like asbestos or lead paint.
Maintenance and Inspection Schedule
Regular checks keep your garage door slab edge in top shape. Use this checklist:
- Monthly: Check joint seals for cracks or gaps.
- Quarterly: Inspect concrete surface for signs of cracking or settlement.
- Annually: Examine drainage effectiveness and ensure no water pooling.
- Spring/Fall: Clean and reseal joints as needed. Check for moisture intrusion.
- Every 2 years: Inspect edge transitions for signs of movement or damage.
- As needed: Address any visible cracks or signs of deterioration promptly.
Quick rule: Regular maintenance prevents minor issues from becoming major problems.
Common Mistakes to Avoid and Cost-Estimating Approach
Avoiding these common pitfalls will save you time, money, and headaches:
- Inadequate Drainage Tie-In: Ensure proper drainage to prevent water damage. Use French drains or slope the slab.
- Incompatible Materials: Match materials for compatibility – concrete with concrete, not wood or metal.
- Poor Joint Detailing: Proper joint design prevents cracking and allows movement.
- Rushing Cure Times: Allow adequate cure time to ensure strength and durability. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines.
To estimate costs, get multiple bids from contractors. Itemize materials, labor, and add a contingency for unexpected expenses. Regular maintenance should also be factored in.
Conclusion
Getting this right matters because a solid slab-edge rebuild keeps your garage dry, your door operating smoothly, and your investment lasting for years. Focus on safety first, and don’t rush the detailing that seals out water and transfers loads cleanly.
Start with a simple, repeatable sequence: confirm permit and plan requirements, inspect the slab-edge condition, lock in the design and interfaces, gather the listed tools and materials, then dry-fit and sequence the repair so you can see how everything comes together before you mix concrete. Do the demolition and pinning in a controlled, safe order, pour and cure with proper isolation where needed, install waterproofing and flashing as you go, and finally test fit the wall claddings and door interface to ensure a clean, durable transition. Treat every step as a test: verify alignment, check for water paths, and recheck fasteners and joints before finalizing.
Common mistakes to avoid include rushing the demolition, skipping proper isolation or waterproofing details, and neglecting a full test fit of transitions. Safety rules are simple: wear eye and hand protection, support the structure while you work, control moisture during curing, and avoid hot, windy or freezing weather when pouring or curing concrete. If anything feels off—an unexpected crack, movement, or a failed seal—stop, reassess, and correct it before continuing.
When in doubt, or if the project hits a snag beyond your experience, call a professional for structural specifics, permit validation, or complex flashing and waterproofing details. Stay deliberate, stay safe, and keep the work organized; finishing this right means a dependable door, a dry garage, and a straightforward maintenance path for years to come.
FAQ
How do I properly install flashing at the bottom of exterior walls for a garage slab-edge rebuild?
Install a continuous flashing strip at the sill line, turning the end of the flashing up behind any wall cladding. Seal the top edge to the wall with a compatible sealant or flashing tape. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for bend radii and overlap requirements, and verify compatibility with the wall materials you’re using.
Make sure the flashing extends far enough to shed water away from the slab edge and into the drainage plane. If in doubt, ask for product labeling or installer guidelines from the supplier or manufacturer, and follow local weatherproofing practices.
What should I consider for water management in adhered concrete masonry around a garage door?
Use a weatherproof drainage plane behind the masonry or siding that protects the adhesive and concrete from moisture wicking. Keep joints impregnated with a compatible sealant or flashing at transitions to the slab. Do not rely on paint or thin sealants alone to stop water intrusion.
Monitor the base level where water can collect; create a slight slope away from the slab edge to encourage drainage. If you’re unsure about the correct product compatibility, read the label, consult the manufacturer instructions, and follow local guidance for masonry joints and sealants.
How does flashing work behind wood and fiber-cement siding in this rebuild?
Install flashing behind the siding so water that gets behind the cladding is directed out and away from the connection to the slab. Overlap flashing with any other weather-resistive barrier and seal seams with the correct tape or sealant per manufacturer directions. Avoid leaving gaps that can trap moisture.
Ensure the siding breathing space and drainage plane are intact and continuous at the garage opening. If you can’t verify compatibility, check the siding manufacturer’s installation instructions and use products rated for behind wood and fiber-cement siding.
What drainage plane considerations should I use for brick or stone walls versus stucco?
Brick or stone walls usually need a clear drainage plane behind the masonry with proper weep apertures and a capillary break at transitions to the slab. Stucco requires an intact moisture barrier and a continuous drainage plane behind the layer, with proper flashing at edges and penetrations. Do not skip the weep system or bypass the drainage layer.
For each material, confirm with the product labels and local practices how to create, protect, and maintain the drainage path. If you’re unsure, ask for manufacturer guidance or local pro recommendations before proceeding.